Pubs & Pathways

The Cotswolds

September 2027

Open to all, 18 and over.

The Cotswolds were built on wool and are best met on foot. Six unhurried days along the old green roads, the drovers' ways and the wool routes, each mile rewarded with the two things this landscape has always done best: a fire with something good cooking on the other side of it, and a story worth staying up for. You walk with a day pack, your bags travel ahead of you, and each evening returns you to a country-house bed.

Mornings belong to the paths. Afternoons belong to the makers of the five mill valleys, where you might sit down to a wool-felting or weaving workshop with a Cotswold craftsperson, or take a private tasting flight at Cotswolds Distillery. Evenings belong to the storytellers who still carry the folklore of the hills, and to ghost stories told by firelight in a low-beamed room.

Running through all of it is the built history of the place. Why the wool churches are the size they are, why every village is the same honey colour, how a drystone wall stands for two hundred years without mortar, and what a weaver's cottage window tells you about the person who worked behind it.

Who Holds the Week

  • Michael Lamerton, our head guide for the week

    A lifelong Cotswold man, Michael is passionate about this corner of England—and he is one of our own, rather than a hired hand. Born in Cornwall and raised in the Gloucestershire countryside, he has spent most of his life immersed in rural England. His appreciation runs far deeper than enjoying a beautiful view: he understands the landscape, traditions, villages and distinctive character of rural British life, and can show you places you would simply never find on your own.

  • Ken Lush, head brewer at Uley Brewery

    Ken has been brewing under Uley Bury on the Cotswold escarpment for years, in a Victorian brewhouse working off its own spring water. He takes us down into the vaulted cellar where the ale is made, pours the Old Spot, and then, because this is Uley and that is what happens there, sings for the party. Ale and song in the room both come from, which is not a thing you can book anywhere else.

  • Sean Callery

    Sean Callery lives in the Cotswolds and has spent years collecting the stories most visitors walk straight past. He's a Blue Badge guide for the Heart of England and a Green Badge guide for Oxford, and the author of Offbeat Cotswolds, a book of nearly 400 strange tales and surprising sights from the region. Before guiding he was a teacher and a children's author with around 60 books to his name, which is why he explains things so well without ever making it feel like a lesson.

    Through the week Sean will be with us on the walks and in the villages, filling in the story of the places we pass through. He'll take us inside the wool churches and explain why they're so grand for such small towns, show us how to read the stone in the buildings, and point out the odd details in the market halls and high streets that give the real history away. Expect the surprising stuff too, the drunken parsons, the strange deaths and the inventions that started here. He's the kind of guide who makes you look twice at a place you thought you'd already seen.

  • Charlie Markwick

    Charlie Markwick is a Cotswold-born storyteller, spoken-word artist and poet who has performed across the UK and Europe. He also leads storytelling courses for adults and children. His Cotswold childhood continues to find its way into his writing, wherever his travels take him. Charlie has created three one-man shows, including Orienteering, which explores his experience of caring for his late wife through dementia. He now lives in rural southern France, once again immersed in the seasonal rhythms that shaped his early life.

  • Morrris Dancers

    The Chipping Campden Morris Dancers are one of only four traditional Cotswold sides with an unbroken history, and records of a side in the town go back to the 1700s. Their dances are unique to Campden and are passed down from one generation to the next, and no other side performs them, something the wider morris community respects. The tradition is kept deliberately unpublished, so the only way to see it properly is to be there. They dance through spring and summer, with the big moments of the year being Dover's Games and Scuttlebrook Wake on the first weekend of June, when they pull the Scuttlebrook Queen through town on a decorated dray. The side today includes several generations of the same families, which tells you most of what you need to know about how seriously Campden takes its own story.

A glimpse of two days on this retreat…

Day 1

Chipping Campden to Broadway.

  • The first miles of the Cotswold Way, up the day's one real climb to Dover's Hill, where sixteen counties are said to lie in view on a clear day.

  • Weather willing, lunch is a hamper on the lawn at Broadway Tower, among the resident deer.

  • That evening, a folklorist by the fire on beacons, bones and boundary stones, and the fires once lit on the tower.

Day 2

The Slad Valley.

  • Laurie Lee's own country: beech hangers and old commons, ending at the churchyard where he lies, opposite the pub he loved.

  • Lunch at The Woolpack, then a private tasting at Uley Brewery, where head brewer Ken Lush pours the Old Spot and sings for the party in the vaulted cellar where the ale is made.

  • Ale and song together, in the place both are made.

The Pubs

Lunch is a pub, most days, and it is the one we have walked to rather than the one we drove past. That changes how a pint tastes and is most of the point. Low beams and flagstones, a fire lit whatever the month, dogs asleep under the settle, and a landlord who knows why the lane behind the church is called what it is.

The Woolpack at Slad is the one everyone knows, Laurie Lee's own, where his ashes lie in the churchyard opposite and his poems are on the wall. We take a long lunch there on the Slad Valley day. The rest are the ones you would only find if a Brit took you, which is the arrangement here.

Along the way…

  • Private folklore talks and ghost stories by the fire

  • Wool-felting and weaving workshops with Cotswold makers

  • The history of the buildings, the stone and the wool churches, read on the ground

  • A private tasting flight at Cotswolds Distillery

  • And the Uley Brewery cellar, ale and song where both are made.

Where you’ll stay

Two houses, one for each half of the week, chosen so you wake near the day’s walking rather than drive to it.

For the first half, The Rectory at Burford is ours alone.

This Grade II-listed, 17th-century parsonage combines rustic beams, sash windows and open fireplaces with nine spacious bedrooms, a wood-fired sauna, hot tub and cinema room. Just off Burford High Street, it places both town and countryside at your doorstep.

Then west to The Painswick.

A Palladian former rectory on the edge of the “Queen of the Cotswolds,” The Painswick has long windows overlooking the Stroud valleys and a spa tucked into its old cellars. From here, Laurie Lee’s country—and the walk through it—lies close at hand.

Both stays are luxurious in the way we love best: with a fire and a dog, rather than a marble lobby.

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